Special equipment: a deep-frying thermometer; 14 wooden skewers

Heat 2 inches of oil in a large heavy pot to 375 degrees F on a deep-frying thermometer. Line a baking sheet with paper towels.

Insert wooden skewers securely into the hot dogs.

Meanwhile, whisk together the cornmeal, flour, sugar, salt, baking powder, and baking soda in a medium bowl.

Whisk the eggs and buttermilk together in a large bowl. Add the flour mixture to the wet ingredients and whisk to combine. Pour the batter into a tall drinking glass.

When the oil is hot, dip a hot dog into the batter, coating thoroughly, then carefully add it to the oil. Repeat with as many as will fit comfortably in the pot. Do not overcrowd the pot.

Fry, turning occasionally, until puffed and golden brown all over, 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to the lined baking sheet to drain. Repeat with the remaining hot dogs, returning the oil to 375 degrees F between batches.

Serve immediately with ketchup and mustard.